Exposed: The Fashion Industry Gripped By Racism
March 29th, 2008
One of Jamaica’s leading models has offered insight into the disturbing racial discrimination holding back the careers of black models in the fashion industry, around the world.
Jamaica-based supermodel Gaye McDonald has spoken out about racism in the fashion industry, and revealed how Paris casting agents “drop black girls like they’re hot.”
The eighteen-year-old, who took the world by storm with her striking looks after winning Caribbean’s Next Top Model, has spoken out about the lack of black faces on catwalks.
McDonald is one of the few fortunate black models to have featured during London, Paris, and New York Fashion Weeks this year.
Speaking exclusively to The Voice while on a modeling casting trip in the UK, McDonald said: “The world is not white, so why should catwalks only feature white models?”
She added: “I’m often the only black girl when I go to castings, which is horrible because everyone looks at you as if you are so different. But I have learnt to make my experience empower me.”
The 5′9” stunner with flawless skin is the new face of United Colors of Benetton.
“I count my lucky Jamaican stars that I have been successful within my modeling career, but from what I can tell, black girls don’t get picked and it’s not because they are not good enough. It’s down to racism,” she said.
McDonald, who is signed to Next modelling agency, is not the first model to speak out about the lack of black faces on the catwalk.
Supermodel Naomi Campbell has consistently been vocal on the matter by criticising magazine editors.“Black models are being sidelined by the major modeling agencies,” Campbell once stated.
Five years after her last cover for British Vogue, Campbell highlighted the racial inequality within the fashion industry and the media.
“I even get a raw deal from my own country. For example, I hardly come on the front pages of London’s Vogue magazine,” she said.
“Only white models, some of whom are not as prominent as I am, are put on the front pages.”
The 37-year-old is contemplating setting up her own modelling agency in Kenya to redress the balance.
“I don’t want to quit modelling until I find that black models get equal prominence and recognition by the world media and information instruments,” Campbell said.
“Women of colour are not a trend.”
This new debate has overshadowed the ‘size zero’ furore, which questioned the promotion and relevance of extremely thin models.
Fashion insiders claim there are now fewer black models seen on ramps and in fashion magazines than there were in the 1990s.
Of the 100 plus shows and presentations held during the 2007/08 fashion weeks in London, Paris, Milan and New York, more than a third did not feature any black models.
Elite Model Management, which discovered Naomi Campbell, has only two black models. Its Paris agency says there is not enough work for more black models because people do not like to see black women.
Echoing Elite’s comment, McDonald, who has strutted her stuff for designer collections such as Diesel, Heatherette, Diane Von Furstenburg, Marc Bouwer, and Mary Ping, stated:
“Paris is the worst place to go for castings. Even though you can have a strong walk and look they will never chose you because they don’t like black girls.
“It makes you feel very uncomfortable and you begin to question yourself as to say ‘what’s wrong with me?
“But, I have to always remember where I’m coming from in order to feel proud about myself, despite being rejected due to the colour of my skin.”
Carole White, co-founder of Premier Model Management, which supplies models to top fashion brands, admitted that finding work for black clients was significantly harder than for the white models, because both magazines and fashion designers were reluctant to employ them.
“Sadly we are in the business where you stock your shelves with what sells,” she said.
“Black models don’t sell. People don’t tend to talk about it, but black models have to be so beautiful and perfect because we can’t have a lot of diversity with black models.”
She added: “It’s harder work for the agency because there’s not so much on offer. White models can have more diversity.”
The co-founder of Acclaim Models, Maya Schulz, agrees with White’s views and points the finger at those organising model castings.
“I have had endless casting briefs which say ‘no ethnics’, which in my view is blatant racism,” Schulz said.
“When putting forward my models for casting for London Fashion Week this year, my business partner and I were told over and over again that designers were not looking to use black or Asian models.
“I have been told outright by a designer, ‘please do not send me any black models as they do not suit my clothes’. I have also been told that black models do not know how to carry themselves in a high fashion manner, which is utter rubbish.
“We all know how elegant and graceful Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell and Alex Wek are.”
Continuing Schulz said: “Signed to my books is Sarah Butler and Jasmia Robinson who became household names after featuring on Britain’s Next Top Model. Unfortunately, Sarah and Jasmia have both experienced racism, especially Jasmia.
“Jasmia is known for her amazing features and walk on the runway, but is often told that her hair and features are ‘too Afro’, meaning African.”
She added: “When Jasmia attended a casting for London Fashion Week February gone, we were told by a very famous designer that she looks like a monkey.”
Speaking to The Voice about the racist comments, Robinson said: “I felt sick. How can someone say I look like a monkey?”
The 20-year-old mixed race beauty added: “This is the typical type of racism that black and mixed race girls like myself often experience and it’s wrong.
“Fashion decision makers always say that black girls don’t sell their designs or products, but why don’t they prove it by putting it to the test? They won’t because their excuses are based on lies.”
However, one designer who is attempting to end the racial divide on the catwalk, and setting his own trends, is Gavin Douglas.
“The shortage of black models signed to modelling agencies is very obvious. Very rarely do I come across black models, which is why this year I went out of my way to seek and find,” said Douglas.
Douglas’ designs are exclusively sold in Harrods and he has dressed stars like Kelly Rowland from Destiny’s Child.
“There should not be a colour issue within the fashion industry because designers like myself dress the world’s population, which should be reflected on the catwalk,” he said.
“The fact that the fashion industry does not have a fair cultural and racial representation on the catwalk, magazines and on billboards raises serious societal problems that need to be addressed immediately.”
Another designer blasting the fashion industry is Katharine Hamnett, who told The Voice: “The catwalks are full of white dogs. Cosmetic companies don’t like black models - the racist bitches.
“I have no idea why, when it’s obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw.
“Black girls have much better body shapes and it’s such a shame. I just think there should be a bit more of a balance.”
While the debate about the lack of black models in today’s industry grows, The Voice is challenging the fashion racial status quo by organising a black model search in conjunction with Select Model Management – The SUPLIGEN® Brand Nu Model 2008.
Are you the next Gayle, Naomi, or Tyson Beckford?
18 Comments Add your own
1. Simone small | April 3rd, 2008 at 2:08 am
I’m disgusted! I knew there was a BIG problem, but I had no idea of the insanely racist comments being made by people who are supposed to be professionals in this industry. As a black model and human being, I want a revolution in this industry.
2. Gail | April 3rd, 2008 at 6:20 pm
The issue is about demographics, Europe has more white women than black hence the proportion of models on the catwalk reflect that. How many white models were on the catwalk in Jamaica, South Africa or the face of Africa modeling competition? NOT ONE WHITE person! There are white people that live in Africa and Jamaica however they are excluded based on their white skins and are barred from entering, so who is the racist … ?
3. Chantal | April 4th, 2008 at 11:15 am
In reply to gail i just want to say i totally understand you but i would like to make one point. This article is saying that black models are being called names to their faces- not “im not being chosen for catwalks because im black”
If you re read the article maybe you’ll see how Jasmia says she wasd told “she looks like a monkey” maybe you should actually read before you say silly things like that
4. Wil | April 7th, 2008 at 7:01 pm
I have to agree with Chantal…..I understand where you are coming from Gail and its true people will tap into the resources that are readily available. I’m from the Caribbean and I can tell you fashion shows there have a variety of ethnicities and skin-tones….so I don’t think White models in the Caribbean are ever excluded. In my country the top model search was recently won by a White girl and she is gorgeous as is the black girls, the brown girls, the Asians and Hispanics. They are all included. The article is talking about how the “Gate-Keepers” are NOT including ethnic diversity in their line up and this is the big problem. As an aspiring male model of colour I was happy when the agency that is interested in me told me that they wanted more Men of Colour. Change is going to happen but how fast….I don’t know?
5. anonmyous | April 8th, 2008 at 1:18 am
but what about asian models? It’s been known that the fashion industry is racist. This issue should not be black or white, it should be black versus other colors as well.
6. Sarah | April 10th, 2008 at 6:53 am
Gail, fashion designers represent the international community - especially in respects to the major cities (New York, Paris, Milan). These cities set trends for the world. It would make sense for the merchandise to be presented by an international cast, no?
You know there is a problem when Gemma Ward graces the premiere covers of Vogue China and India. How many white people live in those countries?
7. Ashley | April 11th, 2008 at 5:19 pm
I’m white, but this sickens me! The world isn’t only white people and the racism needs to stop. There are beautiful diverse models out there, the industry needs to acknowledge that fact.
8. Chantal | April 13th, 2008 at 12:03 am
Hey to whoever said it thats true! There arent many Asian models and i think that Aisian women are georgeous ( but i think all women are gergeous reguardless of skin colour) no im not a lesbian. But anyway back to the point- you dont see many top asian models and i think its unfair, i think there should be a top model of every race! That was it shows diffrent types of beauty but beauty no the less
9. akua kyerematen | April 17th, 2008 at 9:38 pm
As a young black female from Ghana, I surprisingly have mixed reviews on this issue.
I do disagree with the racism that is surfacing in the fashion industry and it is not fair to see only caucasions succeeding in the modeling world and fewer black models given the opportunity to appear in fashion magazines and on the catwalks. Nobody deserves to be called “monkey” or “afro” to their faces at all!
But the only comment I can understand is that most black models do not carry themselves well, which sadly i believe.
Black women need to seriously consider working on their attitude, because we black females have sucky attitudes! We have alwyas been treated as second class citizens, so we tend to act quick with emotions or “be loud” to gain attention, but it is not necessarily right either. While I was in modeling school, this black girl was acting very disrespectful because she didn’t agree that her walk sucked (which it did!) and had a fit about it. Let’s just think back: Camille from America’s next top model, Jacki from USA’S Make Me A Supermodel,Tiffani from America’s Next Top Model…….BAD ATTITUDE! Why do you only see (besides Naomi Cambell) african models succeeding? Becuase black americans and carribeans are sadly not unique enough. only few of them. Africans tend to score more jobs because sorry I have to say this but, we Africans are more proper than americans, speak better english, more educated, and tend to be biligual/multiligual than black americans. Africans have better physiques and better skin. We africans appreciate life more and are much more determined than black american girls. So these are some of the things they have to think about. I am not trying to stereotype black americans but, somebody has to expose a reality check somehow………..
And another thing I have to address is that unfortunately minorities just have to prove themselves more. That is the reality.
10. Chantal | April 22nd, 2008 at 12:06 am
I totaly disgree with you there akua kyerematen. As a blac girls myself i dont think its just the black girls that have an attitude problem. Its silly to say just because of past events that all black girls immediatly get diffensive over comments baout their walks etc. MANY models are like that not just the black ones and its sounds a bit stereotypical to say that
11. Wil | April 22nd, 2008 at 7:42 am
I have to disagree with the person who says that black americans and caribbeans are not unique enough. Naomi Campbell is Jamaican, Tyson Beckford is half african-american and jamaican/chinese, Tyra Banks is african-american, Chanel-Iman is african-american/korean, Shakara Ledard is bahamian….Whats my point….my point is that all of the models listed are considered grand slam, unique and very beautiful. I’m Caribbean but when people see me they are very intrigued by my features. So much so that people mistake me from being from other parts of the world. As for educated I grew up in the British West Indies and I speak fluent English, Spanish and French and so do many others from my region. I have a BA and an MA University Degrees, but I have chosen to model. So you need to do more research and not rely on stereotypes. I think as black people we tend to further the stereotypes by bashing each other. If we want people of other ethnic groups to treat us with respect, then we need to treat each other with respect first. Being Black and Beautiful is not only limited to Africa.
12. joe | April 24th, 2008 at 4:05 pm
your all gay
13. Megan | May 2nd, 2008 at 3:41 am
I really don’t think a designer should hire anyone they don’t like. It’s their choice. Lots of times designers are brutally honest with models. They tell them if they think they are fat among other things. If the designer thought that girl looked like a monkey then so what? Designers can be brutally honest with a white girl but not a black girl? That is racist. And I think what Katharine Hamnett said is racist. She said, “I have no idea why, when it’s obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw. Black girls have much better body shapes and it’s such a shame…” How is it any different than someone saying “it’s obvious that white girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than black girls? It’s not any different.
14. Chantal | May 2nd, 2008 at 9:53 pm
Well lets think about that shall we? If a designer said to a white girl you look like a monkey fair enough thats what designers doBUT it IS racist when they say that to a black model why? BECAUSE THAT IS A DEROGATORY COMMENT ABOUT THEIR ANCESTORY. Maybe if you went back to school or got out in the world you’d see that black footballers used to get banas thrown at them - because they’re black and everyone knos the old sterotype is that black people look like monkeys. Yes i do agree that designers are brutaly honest but that is no reason to mock someone because of their skin colour. You can say whatever about skin type (for example spots etc) but why skin COLOUR for goodnees sake no-one is anyless human because they arent white. And one more point which you made about miss Katherine Hamnett she isnt racist at all she’s just stating her opinion. If she prefers black girls to white girls thats fine but im sure their are high fashion designers who prefer Caucasians to black girls. Maybe its time you got in touch with whats racism and whats just ONE or a few persons OPINION you know the difference between FACT AND OPINION
15. Chantal | May 2nd, 2008 at 9:54 pm
and to that idout who said “your all gay” go and learn to you your words grmatically correct and dont come on here to say stupid things
16. Sundal | June 2nd, 2008 at 11:54 pm
the reason why what katharine hamnett said is not racist is because she was speaking out for a race that has been oppressed for centuries and despite many people’s claims that since the abolition of slavery and the civil rights movement we now exist in a society free from racism, bar a small-minded minority is not true. The fashion industry is a microcosm of public opinion- it channels cultural, socio-economic and political shifts and at the moment it is still revealing that much of the western, developed world is still racist, albeit sometimes only slightly.
As a mixed race model (south east asian/caucasian mix), i have experienced racism and discrimination, albeit in subtle forms. I was told by my agent when i was taken on, that despite having a strong look, he wasn’t sure how much work there would be for ‘an asian model’ (would they call me ‘a white model’ in india? i doubt it). I have luckily managed to get enough work so far (touch wood) to earn my living in london, but i know i could be working more often if i was white. Some jobs can be degrading- a live shopping channel selling makeup where they spend so long on the two white girls (their target audience) and when it comes to my turn not only is their foundation too dark (well, it was slim pickings for asian models at the agency), but they left themselves less than 5mins to slapdash it on. This wasn’t blatant racism but you do get the feeling you are being othered, patronised, discriminated against, whatever you want to call it.
India and China are the world’s next superpowers and with the looming recession, those in the creative industries in the western world will be selling their products and their pr to them. So it’s high time to start representing.
17. Jessica | June 4th, 2008 at 3:02 pm
To be honest i think the modelling industry needs a total shake up especially in the uk, they need to realise that white caucasion models do not represent the majority and it gets very boring when we keep seeing white models with their useless attempts at trying to look exotic with their(fake bake) why not get the real deal the real exotic models who’s skin is a natural tan, wheat or gorgeous chocolate.
Also some clothing bright neon colours look awful on white skin so they need that tan.
Why not have more latinas, bi-racial, mixed models and darkskinned black models, dark-skinned models look sexy and sultry. MESSAGE TO VOGUE, I WANT TO SEE MORE REAL EXOTIC SEXY MODELS OF ETHNIC ORIGIN, YOUR VANILLA MILK GIRLS WIT THEIR FAKE BAKE ARE SO YESTERDAY, THE IDEAL OF BEAUTY IS HEALTHY GLOWING SKIN WITH HEALTHY NOT UNDERWEIGHT SCRAWNY BODIES, WE WANT MORE BLACK, HISPANIC, NATIVE AMERICAN AND ASIAN AND MULTI-ETHNIC MODELS! WHITE IS OUT MULTIETHNIC IS IN! sorry i ain’t racist im half white myself but im so bored with the stereotypical blonde/brunette, lyk BORING! apart frm paris nd nicole and mariah, i love them.
18. Bartosz Kielan | July 14th, 2008 at 8:14 pm
Should we, in return, regulate hip-hop industry?
It’s clearly rasist, innit?
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